I was Hickory’s worst customer

I’m old enough to remember when Hickory’s nearly came to Telford in 2022 before they flipped the land and flogged it to Lidl.  If that wasn’t disappointing enough, they only went and took their smokehouse to Shrewsbury.

Anyway, brand owners Greene King decided that the Priors Lodge would be a better proposition as a Southern style BBQ Smokehouse than a flat-roofed estate boozer, albeit without the flat roof. 

And so Hickory’s was launched last week.  They made a good job of the refurb. It’s almost like they knocked it flat and started again. Unrecognisable.

I was lucky enough to be invited to the press preview. One of the perks of the job, but unlike some of the invites I have in my DMs, I didn’t mind turning up to a dark, tree-covered car park in a housing estate for this one.

The overflow car park is a treat, by the way. I can only imagine in the winter, that making your way through the woods following the aroma of BBQ meat along the string of dimly-lit lanterns will be like taking part in some kind of meaty fairy tale.  An experience some brands would charge extra for.

As we made our way through the garden, a brace of glass-fronted Shepherd Huts came into view. Probably seating about six each, these would be an intimate way of enjoying a special occasion. I digress.

Inside, the wood and Americana are omnipresent. From the pictures on the wall, the saddle in the bar, and the sports on the TV.  It’s OK to come here for a beer and watch the football, whichever shape it is.

The drinks are interesting. The brands you’ve heard of, and many you haven’t. Lots are unique to Hickory’s and for non-drinkers, some adult soft drinks that don’t make you look like a party pooper.

I had a Hickory’s Texas Red Fruit, Mrs Live had an improbably-named Athletic Lager. Both alcohol free choices, delivered to our bar table along with a bag of complimentary popcorn while we waited for our table and absorbed our surroundings. 

We were led through a packed restaurant of freeloaders – like us – enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and the enthusiastic hosts. 

See the menus

As we got to the table, the menus were laid out like a newspaper. The table condiments lacked salt and pepper, but included mayo, and the biggest bottle of hot sauce I have ever seen. 

As Hickory’s worst customers, we scanned the menu. One vegetarian, one vegan. Yes, it took until paragraph 12 to tell you I was vegan. The stereotypes are wrong.

So why in the beef-brisket heck, did we accept the invite to come to a rib-glazing BBQ smokehouse? 

When you go out in a group, the chances of there being a non-meat or gluten-free eater are relatively high, and I wanted to find out if Hickory’s would be a disaster for the booker. 

For Gluten Free folks, they have a separate menu, so you lot can sit back down. You’ll be well catered for.

Looking round, meat eaters will not be disappointed.  I’m sure that there will be a number of reviews of the meat dishes on offer from the fabulous ShropshireGOAT or Shropshire Foodies if that’s your thing.

While we scanned the other tables, we spotted a chap who had ordered a Freak Shake. This drink/art installation was immense. It needed a manual handling briefing to dismantle it enough to start eating it.

We went for Frickles (£7.50) to start. This is what I like about Hickory’s. There is stuff on this menu that you will not find anywhere else. Everything is done differently.

Frickles are pickles in batter, with a large dollop of sauce served on their special Frickle delivery vehicle. Everything is done differently.

Delicious. Crispy, and fresh. There are four frickles in a portion. The server suggested we have one portion between us. A valuable and welcome suggestion. 

For main course, it was Sizzling Fajitas (Vegan – £19.50) and Hickory’s Veggie Burger (£18.00).

Served in a skillet on a board with salsa, guac and totillas, the fajita filling included Quorn-style strips. The tortillas were a bit small to fit all the filling in, but that doesn’t stop you eating it.

The burger, served with fries, was stacked.  I couldn’t pick it up. I took it apart and used a knife and fork like someone who had never had a burger before.

The portions are substantial. If you have hungry teens that have been banned from the Pizza Hut all-you-can-eat buffet, bring them here.

We couldn’t manage a dessert, and yet they looked so damn fine.

Vegans and vegetarians, while they won’t have to spend too long perusing the menu, will be fine here for a work outing, birthday celebration, or special occasion.  

Grateful we enjoyed our complimentary evening, we left a decent tip for the excellent staff and made our way back out through the woods.

While there is plenty of pulled pork and fried chicken, it’s time to think about the elephant in the room  – Price.

Look, it’s not spoons. And that’s OK. This is somewhere that does things differently. At £20 for a main course, you are not popping here for lunch everyday, but it’s on par with Miller and Carter, and Willow. 

And lets not forget, it is on Priorslee after all.